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Reviewing & Tasting Absinthe


Absinthe
– For over 200 years, this spirit has sparked both fascination and controversy. Its key ingredient, wormwood—once valued as a medicinal herb—was believed to give absinthe healing and preventive properties. These claims helped fuel its rise in popularity, transforming it from a trendy novelty into France’s national drink. However, growing concerns eventually led to its ban and prohibition. Only in recent years has absinthe experienced a revival in France and across Europe.

How to Taste Absinthe

While the traditional “absinthe ritual” may seem elaborate, preparing absinthe is no more difficult than mixing any other drink. The key is finding the perfect absinthe/water ratio that provides the best taste for each absinthe you try and always mix it as such.


What To Look For When Tasting An Absinthe


There are generally considered to be 5 criteria used to evaluate an absinthe - Appearance, Louche, Aroma, Flavor/Mouthfeel, Finish

Appearance

When judging an absinthe's appearance consider that a quality absinthe should have a vibrant, rich green hue—not that is not too pale or overly dark. A deep green may suggest artificial colors. Also consider the clarity of the absinthe. A premium absinthe will have no haze or debris. It will appear brilliant, crisp and clear. A blanche or white absinthe will be completely colorless and crystal clear. Note: A very minor sediment may be acceptable but should not affect the clarity when poured.


Louche

The louche is the absinthe turning cloudy when cold water is added caused by the botanical oils being released from the high concentration alcohol. The louche forms as the added water slowly decreases the alcohol concentration. A good louche is full and rich almost as if milk has been added to the liquor. A thin, see-through louche is normally considered undesirable.

For reviewing absinthe a dilution with 3 to 5 parts water per 1 part absinthe is generally used based on your palete.


Aroma

When evaluating absinthe’s aroma, remember it is a combination of its core botanicals the distillation process, and aging. When water is added, the aroma will bloom, releasing a soft, spicy, floral scent often likened to fresh cut flowers.


Flavor and Mouthfeel

Absinthe’s flavor is a blend of the herbal “trinity”. This trinity consists of wormwood, anise and fennel with notes from other herbs added during production. After adding water, a quality absinthe should be balanced, refreshing with subtle layering.

The Mouthfeel of a quality absinthe will be crisp and clean with a smooth feel. A slight tingling or numbness is to be expected but not over done.


Finish

To review the finish, consider the lingering flavors and sensations after swallowing the louched absinthe. For a premium absinthe it will be smooth, dry, slightly bitter, fresh and crisp lasting a short time but not overly numbing or harsh. The finish will fade evenly or shift in complexity over time

Absinthe Glasses


Absinthe History & FAQ



Why Was Absinthe Banned?

By the late 19th century, absinthe had become wildly popular, leading to a surge in demand. As its consumption grew, it became a scapegoat for rising concerns about alcoholism, crime, violence, and social unrest.

The anti-alcohol movement targeted absinthe in particular, finding an ally in the powerful wine industry, which was suffering from declining sales due to absinthe’s popularity.
In 1914, absinthe was officially banned for several reasons:

• To support the struggling wine industry and promote traditional alcohol production

• To control alcohol consumption, especially among French soldiers during wartime

• To curb illegal trade and prevent tax revenue losses


Is Absinthe Legal in My Country?

If you're of legal drinking age and alcohol is legal in your country, there’s a very good chance that absinthe is legal too. Today, absinthe is widely available across Europe, the United States, Canada, Australia, and much of Asia.

However, its sale is regulated and must comply with certain legal restrictions:

Thujone content must not exceed 35 mg per liter (in the U.S., the limit is 10 mg/l). This European regulation strikes a balance, allowing the production of absinthes similar to those from the 19th century, which typically contained about 6 mg/l. To feel any noticeable effects from thujone at the current legal limit, you'd have to drink around 5 liters in one sitting—something you'd likely pass out from long before reaching that point.

Fenchone content must be no more than 5 mg/l, and pinocamphone no more than 20 mg/l—but these limits apply only in France.


Why Does Absinthe Turn Cloudy When Water Is Added?

Absinthe contains anise, a herb rich in an essential oil called anethole. Anethole dissolves easily in alcohol but not in water. When you add water to absinthe, the alcohol content drops, causing the anethole to come out of solution and form tiny droplets. This reaction creates the signature cloudy effect—known as the louche—that makes absinthe so visually striking when diluted.


A Breif History of Absinthe

Absinthe, often called La Fée Verte ("The Green Fairy"), is a spirit steeped in mystique and history. Though famously associated with Belle Époque Paris and the bohemian cafés of Montmartre, its origins trace back to the late 18th century near Couvet, Switzerland, and Pontarlier, France.

Legend credits Dr. Pierre Ordinaire, a French physician, with creating absinthe in 1792 as a medicinal tonic. However, local sisters, the Henriods, were likely making a similar recipe even earlier. Entrepreneur Major Dubied acquired their formula and, with his son-in-law Henri-Louis Pernod, began commercial production. In 1805, they founded the Pernod Fils distillery, which grew from a small operation to producing over 20,000 liters per day by mid-century.

Pernod Fils became a leader not just in absinthe production but also in progressive worker benefits. Absinthe’s popularity skyrocketed in the 19th century, especially after French soldiers in Algeria adopted it for its supposed medicinal properties. By the 1870s, absinthe had become the apéritif of choice, with over 36 million liters consumed annually in France by 1910.

The drink became synonymous with Parisian café culture, particularly during l’Heure Verte (The Green Hour) around 5 p.m. Montmartre’s cafés teemed with poets, artists, and eccentrics—from Baudelaire to Erik Satie—many of whom made absinthe a symbol of creative rebellion.

Pernod’s success inspired many imitators and helped shape modern trademark law through constant legal disputes. A fire in 1901 briefly halted production, dumping millions of liters into the Doubs River, but the factory was quickly rebuilt.

Absinthe’s reach extended worldwide, from French colonies to New Orleans, where it became central to cocktail culture. The Old Absinthe House became a legendary haunt, inspiring figures like Aleister Crowley. After Prohibition, the local Legendre Company introduced “Herbsaint,” an absinthe-style pastis still produced today.


Why Was Absinthe Banned?

Absinthe began as a relatively expensive spirit enjoyed mainly by France's upper-middle classes. But by the late 19th century, thanks to mass production and the switch from grape to cheaper grain or beet alcohol, absinthe had become far more affordable and widely available. Dozens of new brands flooded the market, many aimed at the lower end of society.

At the same time, France’s wine industry was in crisis. Vineyards were devastated by oidium (a mildew) and phylloxera (a vine-killing aphid), causing a national wine shortage and driving up prices. Absinthe, stronger and cheaper, quickly became the go-to drink for the working class—effectively replacing wine. This rise in popularity alarmed the wine lobby, which, once recovered, pushed hard to vilify and ban absinthe to reclaim its lost market.


The Birth of “Absinthism”

Concerns about absinthe abuse began emerging in the 1860s. Repeated heavy use of the drink was said to cause a condition called absinthism, characterized by hallucinations, seizures, addiction, and psychosis. The leading proponent of this theory was Dr. Valentin Magnan, chief physician at the Sainte-Anne asylum in Paris.

Magnan described absinthism as far worse than regular alcoholism. He claimed it caused terrifying delusions, epileptic fits, and extreme physical collapse. One of his vivid case descriptions detailed patients falling unconscious, convulsing violently, and awakening in a state of total confusion.

However, Magnan's research was deeply flawed. His studies involved subjecting small animals to pure wormwood essence—not commercially available absinthe, which contained only trace amounts of wormwood. In French, the word absinthe referred both to the plant extract and the drink, allowing prohibitionists to cite his findings as if they applied to the beverage itself.


Scientific Doubts and Misinterpretation

A British physician writing in The Lancet in 1869 challenged Magnan's conclusions, arguing that the symptoms attributed to absinthism—tremors, insomnia, hallucinations—were all typical of chronic alcoholism in general. He also pointed out that the toxicity of concentrated wormwood was irrelevant, since absinthe drinkers consumed diluted products.

Still, Magnan persisted in blaming absinthe for the extreme degeneration seen in alcoholics. He ignored the more likely explanation: people suffering the worst effects of alcoholism were simply drinking the cheapest, strongest liquor available—absinthe.

Compounding the confusion was the widespread use of toxic additives in cheap, poorly made absinthes. Unscrupulous producers often used substances like copper sulfate to fake the natural green color, or antimony chloride to create the signature cloudy effect when water was added. These adulterants were far more dangerous than wormwood itself and contributed significantly to health problems blamed on absinthe.


Moral Panic and the Rise of Temperance Movements

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, France (like many Western nations) experienced a wave of temperance activism, led by groups like the Ligue Nationale Contre l’Alcoolisme (known colloquially as the Croix Bleue or “Blue Cross”). These groups promoted abstinence from spirits, often portraying absinthe as the ultimate symbol of moral decay.

Meanwhile, popular and scientific opinion increasingly linked alcoholism to heredity, claiming that absinthism was passed from parent to child like a genetic curse. It was seen as not only a public health crisis but a threat to the future of France itself.

In this climate, the line between absinthism and alcoholism blurred. An alcoholic became, by default, an “absinthe drinker.” This oversimplification suited the wine industry perfectly. Wine, considered a wholesome, “natural” product of the land, was spared criticism. Absinthe, an industrial product with a high alcohol content, became the scapegoat.

A 1907 petition from the Croix Bleue, signed by 400,000 citizens, declared:

“Absinthe makes you crazy and criminal, provokes epilepsy and tuberculosis, and has killed thousands of French people. It turns men into beasts, women into martyrs, and children into degenerates. It destroys families and threatens the nation.”

Political Pressure and Cultural Backlash

Politicians, too, joined the crusade. Deputy Henri Schmidt told the French Chamber that absinthe was “246 times more likely to cause insanity than wine” and “three times more dangerous than brandy.” He famously declared:

“Absinthe leads straight to the madhouse or the courthouse. It is truly madness in a bottle.”

Absinthe’s association with the bohemian counterculture—figures like Van Gogh, Toulouse-Lautrec, Baudelaire, and Rimbaud—only fueled the outrage. Their rebellious lifestyles, unconventional art, and perceived immorality offended conservative France. Absinthe, their favored drink, became the symbol of everything wrong with modern society.

The media stoked fears. In June 1907, Le Matin proclaimed:

“TOUS POUR LE VIN, CONTRE L’ABSINTHE” ("Everyone for wine, against absinthe").


The Final Blow

Although the science behind absinthism was shaky, the political momentum, economic interests, and moral panic proved overwhelming. By the early 20th century, France and many other countries enacted bans on absinthe, casting it as a uniquely destructive force—when in reality, its dangers were exaggerated, misunderstood, and manipulated for profit and propaganda.


Absinthe Glasses
How to Taste Absinthe

While the traditional “absinthe ritual” may seem elaborate, preparing absinthe is no more difficult than mixing any other drink. The key is finding the perfect absinthe/water ratio that provides the best taste for each absinthe you try and always mix it as such.